云南鹤庆白依人植物染料的民族植物学研究

Ethnobotanical research on the plant dyes used by Baiyi people in Heqing, Yunnan

关键词:  民族植物学, 植物染料, 染色工艺, 白依人, 传统知识

Key words:  ethnobotany, plant dye, dyeing craft, Baiyi people, traditional knowledge

摘要:

植物染料有绿色环保、安全性高等优势,但其资源量少、成本高、色牢度低等缺点限制了植物染料在工业化的应用。云南鹤庆白依人有植物染色的传统习俗,当地有丰富的染料植物资源和传统染色工艺。为调查、记录和研究白依人植物染色和相关传统知识,拓展植物染料资源并促进植物染料的开发利用,该研究对大理州鹤庆县六合彝族乡白依人植物染色及相关传统知识进行了民族植物学调研。2019年9月至2020年3月,对大理州鹤庆县六合彝族乡4个村落的288位信息报告人进行半结构式访谈,对当地植物染料进行实地调研,以参与式观察法记录传统植物染色技艺,通过定量分析法对传统植物染色知识(f值、CII_s值、ICF值)进行分析研究。结果表明:(1)鹤庆白依人使用11种植物染料,分属10科11属。(2)不同地区、年龄、性别的白依人对传统植物染色知识的认知有差异。(3)水红木和密蒙花的使用频率和文化重要性指数较高,并且白依人对蓝染的植物染料认知高度一致。(4)白依人常用植物染料给本民族服饰火草衣染色。该文揭示了鹤庆白依人有较完整的传统植物染色知识体系,但随着时代的发展而逐渐流失。该研究结果为植物染料资源的开发和传统植物染色工艺的研究提供科学线索,促进少数民族植物染料的产业化应用,对少数民族地区的经济发展有重要意义和应用价值。

Abstract:

Plant dyes have the advantages of green environmental protection and high safety, but due to the shortage of resources, high cost and low color fastness, the industrial application of plant dyes is limited. Baiyi people have the traditional custom of plant dyeing in Heqing, Yunnan Province, and there are rich local dye plant resources and traditional dyeing technology. In order to investigate, record and study Baiyi people plant dyeing and related traditional knowledge, expand plant dye resources and promote the development and utilization of plant dyes, this study conducted ethnobotanical investigation on plant dyeing and related traditional knowledge of Baiyi people in Liuhe Yi Township, Heqing County, Dali Prefecture. From September 2019 to March 2020, 288 informants were interviewed by semi-structured interviews from four villages in Liuhe Yi Township, Heqing County, Dali Prefecture; local dye plants were investigated by field research; traditional plant dyeing crafts were recorded by participatory observation; traditional knowledge of plant dyeing was analysed through quantitative analysis(f value, CII_s value, ICF value). The results are as follows:(1)The Baiyi people use 11 species of dye plants in Heqing, belonging to 10 families and 11 genera.(2)People of different regions, ages and genders have different cognitions of traditional knowledge of plant dyeing.(3)The use frequency and cultural importance index of Viburnum cylindricum and Buddleja officinalis are higher, and the cognition of Baiyi people is highly consistent on dye plants of blue.(4)Baiyi people often use dye plants to dye their own traditional cloth(folk cloth made from Gerbera delavayi). This research reveals that Baiyi people have a relatively complete knowledge system of traditional plant dyeing in Heqing, but it has gradually lost with the development of the times. This study provides scientific clues for the exploitation of dye plant resources and the research of traditional plant dyeing technology, promotes the industrial application of dye plants of minority, and has a great significance and application value for the economic development in minority areas.