西双版纳傣族传统染料植物的调查研究

Field survey on the dye plants used by Dai people in Xishuangbanna

关键词:  天然染料， 资源植物， 染色工艺， 傣族， 传统知识

Key words:  nature dyes, economic plants, dye technics, Dai people, traditional knowledge

摘要:

植物染料在工业化应用过程中存在着资源限制，目标色相不丰富、色牢度不理想、植物染料本身的鉴别和成品的鉴别等问题。为了丰富染料植物资源的来源和提高染料植物资源的利用效率，该研究对西双版纳傣族利用的染料植物及其染色工艺涉及的相关植物进行了系统调查。2014年10月到2016年1月，采用半结构式访谈法对西双版纳14个村寨的56个关键信息人进行访谈，收集信息包括使用着色植物、媒染植物和助染植物的种类、傣名、利用部位和资源来历，以及预处理和染色过程工艺条件与技术步骤；采用参与式观察法对4种色相的10个染色工艺过程进行了记录，采集了凭证标本和图像资料；对调查信息进行了整理编目。结果表明：西双版纳地区的傣族使用11种着色植物和17种助染植物；目标色相有红、黄、蓝和绿。分析了傣族染料植物资源的发掘潜力、傣族利用植物染色对于染料植物利用的应用启发。该研究详细深入地记录了西双版纳傣族使用的染料植物的种类及其相关的组合和染色的过程。该研究结果对民族民间染料植物与染色工艺的产业化应用具有重要借鉴意义,为染料植物资源筛选及其染色工艺条件优化提供了参考。

Abstract:

Plant dyes， the most important part of natural dyes， have been widely used since ancient time. To pursue healthy and environment friendly production, the research of dye plants is increasing. However, plant dyes do carry some inherent disadvantages responsible for the decline of industrial application of dye plants. The production of dye plant materials may be altered by the climate. Poorly fastness, disunity of the color hue, no standard dyeing process are the problems unsolved. Dai people have their own features in using plants. This study aimed to provide information for the selection of dye plants and optimization their dyeing process by systemically investigating dye plants including mordant plants, dye assistant plants and their related dyeing processes used by Dai people in Xishuangbanna. Fifty six people in fourteen Dai villages were interviewed using semi structure interview method. Recorded the information of the colorant plants and dye assistant plants about their names, using parts, the place get the materials and the preparations and dyeing processes. We recorded the whole processes of several dyeing technics, collected the voucher species, analyzed the information, and documented eleven colorant plants and seventeen dye assistant plants. The parts used to get a red color were usually bark and heartwood. They were immersed into boiling water to abstract red dyeing liquid. Flower and turmeric was used to obtain yellow. Fermentation method was used to obtain black or black blue. The documented plant species all can be grown in Xishuangbanna. Most of them have medicinal values. The related dyeing processes are all environment friendly. The results of the study plays a significant important role in the industrialization of plant dyes in the future.